Signs of a Rat Infestation
Rat droppings are the clearest sign of rats, and they are noticeably bigger than a mouse’s. Cornell University’s IPM program puts Norway rat droppings at 3/4 to 1 inch long and roof rat droppings at about 1/2 inch. Penn State Extension describes rat droppings as blunt and “about the size of a small raisin.”
Other signs help narrow down where the rats are living:
- Burrows. UC IPM says Norway rats burrow “along building foundations, beneath rubbish or woodpiles.” A hole by the slab, under a shed or beside a woodpile is worth a closer look.
- Gnawing. Chewed wood, plastic and wiring, including car engine wiring, which UC IPM lists among the things rats damage. If you park outside or in the garage, look under the hood.
- Where the noise is. Movement overhead, in the attic or upper walls, fits a climbing rat. Activity at ground level, by the foundation or under the floor, fits a burrowing one.
Each of these tells us where to start the inspection, and which rat we are likely dealing with.
Norway Rats vs Roof Rats in Chesapeake
Chesapeake homeowners can run into either rat. Virginia Tech’s pest guidance names two main pest rats in Virginia: the roof rat (Rattus rattus) and the Norway rat (Rattus norvegicus). They behave differently enough that the species decides the plan. Oregon State University Extension advises identifying which one you have first, because “the control methods are different for the two species.”
| Norway rat | Roof rat | |
|---|---|---|
| Nests | Underground or at ground level; burrows by foundations, woodpiles and rubbish | Above ground; trees, attics, walls and false ceilings |
| Indoors | Basement and ground-floor areas | Upper floors, attics and wall voids |
| Droppings | 3/4 to 1 inch, blunt | About 1/2 inch |
| Nightly travel | 100 to 500 feet from the nest | Routinely 300 feet or more for food |
| Wariness of new objects | Cautious | More cautious still |
Sources: Virginia Tech, UC IPM and Cornell University IPM.
When both are present, UC IPM notes that Norway rats generally take the lower levels of a building and roof rats the upper parts. That split changes where we put traps and stations, which entry points we seal first and how long the job is likely to need.
Our Rat Removal Process
Our rat removal process targets the whole colony, not just the rat you saw. If you have seen one rat, the inspection looks for the nest, the food source and the route behind it.
- Inspection. We walk the property inside and out to identify the species, follow the runs, locate burrows and nesting sites and mark every gap and gnaw-point.
- Burrow and nesting-site treatment. Active burrows and nests found on the inspection are treated.
- Exterior bait stations. Stations go along the routes the rats travel, placed for the species: ground level for Norway rats, with attention to the roofline approach for roof rats.
- Removal of catches. We remove and dispose of every catch.
- Follow-up visit. We recheck the traps and bait stations, top up the stations and adjust the treatment if activity remains.
The follow-up is built in because rats are suspicious of anything new in their territory, so a trap or station that sits untouched for the first few days is normal (see the FAQs below).
At the end, the technician walks you through what was found, what was removed and what was sealed.
Rat Burrow Treatment
Rat burrow treatment deals with the nest underground, not just the hole you can see. Norway rats dig deeper than most people assume: University of Nebraska-Lincoln Extension says they “burrow straight down into the ground at least 36 inches.” Kicking soil into the entrance does not reach the nest.
We treat active burrows and nesting sites found during the inspection, and exterior bait stations work alongside that treatment. Not every hole is active, so we check before treating. If you are not sure whether what you have found is a burrow, our guide to rat burrows around the house shows what an active one looks like.
After treatment, the ground near the house should stay hard to burrow in. Two official recommendations help:
- University of Nebraska-Lincoln Extension advises keeping “a clean, 3-foot-wide, weed-free area around building foundations” to discourage burrowing.
- The Virginia Department of Health recommends storing materials at least 6 inches above the ground.
Firewood stacked against the house, a pile of lumber behind the shed or a gap under a raised deck are all places we check when burrows return.
Rat Entry-Point Sealing
Rat entry-point sealing closes every gap a rat can use, high and low. A rat fits through far less than its body size suggests: UC IPM puts the door-bottom limit at half an inch and treats any hole over 1/4 inch as worth sealing.
Rats also reach places that look out of range. University of Nebraska-Lincoln Extension notes they “climb the outside of vertical pipes and conduit up to 3 inches in diameter,” which puts roof vents and upper-wall penetrations within reach of a downspout or a cable run.
Below ground, Virginia Tech warns that rats “will dig into and use broken sewer pipes as an entryway,” so a broken drain line can be an entry point too.
On a rat job, sealing starts where the species points: foundation gaps, crawl space vents and utility entries for Norway rats; soffits, roof vents and the climbing routes up to them for roof rats. Every gap is closed with hardened material sized to it, never foam alone. For the materials and the whole-house scope, see our rodent exclusion and proofing service.
Rat Control Cost in Chesapeake
Rat control in Chesapeake costs $150 to $220 per visit for rat treatment with Chesapeake Rodent Control. A rat job can combine several visits:
| Service | Price per visit |
|---|---|
| Rat treatment | $150–$220 |
| Follow-up visit | $99–$120 |
| Exclusion & proofing | $180–$250 |
Because rats are wary of new traps and bait, the follow-up visit is a normal part of the job rather than an extra. Exclusion is added when the house has gaps that need sealing, and attic or crawl space work is quoted once we have seen it.
The technician gives you the figure on the callback, so you know the cost before you book. Our guide to rodent control cost in Chesapeake explains what changes the price.
Rats in Attics & Crawl Spaces
Rats in the attic are usually roof rats, and rats under the floor are usually Norway rats, so where you hear them is a strong clue to the species.
Roof rats reach attics from outside. UC IPM advises removing tree limbs within 6 feet of a roof, because they let rats and tree squirrels reach the roof top and the soffit vents. Read about the signs and entry points of rats in the attic.
Norway rats work at ground level, burrowing along the foundation and moving into the space under the house. For that problem, start with rats under the house, and see rats and mice in crawl spaces for what rodent activity under the floor looks like.